for 



Tovrisis 




T 



" In certain respects all cities are alike. 
But in others they are not. 

And it is the Differences alone that make them 
interesting. 



O SET FORTH WHEREIN MONTREAL, THE 
REALLY WONDERFUL METROPOLIS OF 
CANADA, DIFFERS SIGNALLY FROM ALL 
HER SISTER CITIES ON THE AMERICAN 
CONTINENT, MAKING HER WELL 
WORTH A VISIT FROM EVERY 
TRAVELLER WHO CARES FOR 
WHAT IS INTERESTING IN 
THE PAST, DELIGHTFUL 
IN THE PRESENT, AND 
PROMISING FOR THE 
FUTURE, IS THE 
PRINCIPAL OB- 
JECT OF THIS 
PU BLICA- 
T I C:> N . 




On Skis. 



MONTREAL 
FOR TOURISTS 

Bv HENRY P. PHELPS 



\ II F 





^ 



Z 



General Passenger Department 



THE DELAWARE & HUDSON COMPANY 



,5 



p<' 



Copyright, 1904, by J. \V. Burdiclc. 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
I Two Cepies Received 

I JAN 26 1904 

CLASS «- XXc. No. 



-i 



A DISINTERESTED OPINION. 

" It may be questioned whether there is a 
railway journey in the world which gives in 
one day a variety and splendor of landscape to 
equal that which is enjoved by the traveler 
taking the morning express by this Line (The 
Delaware & Hudson) between Montreal and 
New York." — Professor y. Clark Murray, 
in the Scottish Refieiv, "jfanuary, lSg2. 



MATTH EWS - NOR THRUF 



V 




MONTREAL 

FOR TOURISTS 




S a rule, we in the States, who 
have never been out of the 
States, know very httle about 
Montreal — or Canada, either — 
and with many of us, as the 
late Mr. Billings might say, 
" what we do know is not so." 
It is for this reason that a first 
visit to Montreal is frequently in the nature of a sur- 
prise, shading rapidly into astonishment, admiration, 
and delight. 

Here, within a dav's or a night's journey from New 
York, is a distinctly foreign citv. 

Populated largely by those speaking a foreign 
language ; 

With an architecture substantially different from 
that to which we are accustomed; 

A city of churches and cathedrals, of nunneries, 
monasteries, and convents ; 

A city of great wealth, of massive business struc- 
tures, and magnificent residences ; 

A very old city, as we reckon civic age in America ; 
With quaint old buildings, and ancient landmarks ; 
A city fraught with deeply interesting historical 
associations ; 



M () X r R 



A L 



K C) R 



T O I' R I S T S 



St. James 
Street. 




The only city having a great mountain park within 
its limits ; 

A city where every hearse is a triumphal chariot ; 

And cab fare twenty-five cents ! 

In no other city in the world do the two races — 
one brilliant, volatile, and gay; the other substantial, 
conservative, and sober — come into such general, imme- 
diate, and, on the whole, satisfactory contact, as in 
Montreal, where, for instance, although the French are 
largely in the majority, it is the unwritten law that the 
mayor, chosen once in two years, shall be alternately 
French and English. 

In no other city on this continent north of Mexico, 
does the greatest ecclesiastical organization the world 
has ever known maintain so much of its old-world 



M O N T R K A 1. I OR TOURISTS 

spectacular niagnificeiice as in Montreal. Its churches, 
as nowhere else in America, are on this account visited 
annually hv thousands of tourists, who find in their 
music, frescoes, carvings, statuarv, windows, and relics 
the same attractions that have so long been potent 
in European cities. Hundreds of the black-robed 
religious of both sexes are seen on the thoroughfares 
which not infrequently are given up to churchly pil- 
grimages and pageants, while the Street Directory itself 
is practically a transcript of the Calendar of the Saints. 
Interesting at all times, Montreal is of special 
interest just now, because of the extent to which public 
attention, both in the United States and Great Britain, 
is concentrating on the Dominion. Gradually we are 
waking to the fact that Canada is something more 
than the name of a frontier — that Canada, a country 
larger in area than the United States, and abounding 
in natural resources scarcely less than those of her 
southern neighbor, is on the eve of an immense 
development. Already great railroad corporations, 
representing millions of capital, are rivaling one 
another in the haste with which they are threading the 
northern forests with lines of steel which are to bring 
the husbandman bv hundreds of thousands to till the 
virgin soil. \u)\- the Canadian climate, tar from being 
the one long reign ot frost and snow of popular 
opinion, is speciallv propitious for grains and roots. 
No finer wheat land lies out of doors than is found in 
Manitoba. In Alberta cattle and horses graze without 
shelter all the year. The lumber interest of the 
Dominion is admittedly beyond all computation; 
while what her mineral resources mav be no one who 



MONTREAL 



FOR 



TOURISTS 



Lachine 
Rapids. 



bethinks himself of the once despised Alaska will 
undertake to tell. 

All this means much to Montreal. 
Of an empire comprising one-half the continent of 
North America, destined to be the home of millions 
of inhabitants, by far the largest part must always be 
tributory to this island city of the St. Lawrence River; 
and men of sound judgment do not hesitate to 
prophesy that within the next one hundred years — 
possibly the next fifty — Montreal will be classed as 
second only in importance among Atlantic ports. 

Those who doubt are invited to consider the con- 
ditions that make for a city's greatness. For Montreal 
owes her present, and will owe her future, not to chance, 

and not to man, 
or to the plans 
of men ; but to 
the ledge of trap 
and limestone 
over which 
dash, with foam 
and roar, the 
rapids of La- 
chine, forming 
for ocean steamships an insuperable barrier to the most 
magnificent system of inland navigation in the world. 
Thus far, for seven months in the year, vessels of the 
heaviest draft come without impediment; but here they 
stop, here break bulk at the one point nearest for 
them to the heart of the American continent — and 
least distant from European markets. 

Here, at the confluence of the Ottawa and the St. 



f***^ 



'lSr'^4^a^ 




MONTREAL 



FOR 



TOURISTS 



Place 
d'Armes. 




Lawrence rivers, on an island ot wonderful fertility, 
sits the stately City of Montreal — at her back Mount 
Royal, happily so named by Jacques Cartier 368 years 
ago. With her right arm she reaches inland 1,500 
miles, appropriating by means of the St. Lawrence, 
the great lakes and supplementary system of canals, 
the commerce not only of the mighty Canada which is 
to be ; but, to a large extent, that of the Northwest 
United States, which already is. With her left she 
extends to Liverpool a waterway 315 miles shorter 
than is the voyage from New York, with one-third of 
the distance (986 miles) over the smooth waters ot the 
river as against those of the tempestuous Atlantic. 

Were these advantages continuous throughout the 
year, iiothing could prevent the ultimate supremacy of 
Montreal among the ports of North America. 

Meantime, it is something to be second. 



M () N 



I ( ) R 



I' () I 



S T S 



One decided advantage which Montreal presents to 
the tourist resident in the vicinity of New York or 
Albany, is that he does not have to traverse a conti- 
nent or cross an ocean to get there. He can, if he 
chooses, go to sleep at night in a Pullman and awake 
at his destination in the morning. 

But with such a delightful prelude as is offered by 
the daylight trip on the Delaware & Hudson — the 
only direct or logical route — through Northern New 
York and along, or upon, the waters of Lake Cham- 
plain, nothing but the lack of time can excuse making 
the journey after nightfall. 

To constantly varying but always interesting and 
often impressive scenery, is added the charm ot his- 
torical association and the glamour of romance. From 
the ancient city of Albany northward almost every 
mile stands for 

a t h r i ! 1 i n g ', 

chapter in 
Colonial or 
Revolutionary 
annals. It is 
the veritable 
s t a ni p i n g 
ground of 
heroes whose 
names are 
household 
words. 

The battle- 
fields of Bemis 
Heights, and 




Bonsecours 
Church 



MONTREAL FOR TOURIST S 

of Saratoga, where Burgoyne laid down his sword, and 
the nation's destiny was decided, are near at hand ; 

At Mechanicville a monument seen from the car 
windows marks the grave of one of the earhest 
victims of the later war, whose untimely end was 
woven into a slogan chanted by thousands ot soldier 
voices in that unhappy time : 

"We'll avenge the death of Ellsworth, 
We'll avenge the death of Ellsworth, 
We'll avenge the death of Ellsworth, 
As we go marching on." 

The murder of the beautiful Jane McCrea, whose 
death was to New York what the battle of Lexington 
was to New England, was committed near Fort 
Edward ; 

It was near Fort Ann that " Old Put" — General 
Israel Putnam — was rescued, singed and naked, from 
the stake where his Indian captors were burning him 
alive ; 

Glens Falls is as vividly associated with Cooper's 
"Last of the Mohicans" as if the tale were really true; 

The crumbling ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, which 
surrendered to Ethan Allen " in the name of the 
Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress," are in 
plain sight ; 

At Crown Point are the remains of Lord Amherst's 
1 1 0,000,000 fortress, and ot the earlier French fort, 
St. Frederic ; 

Off Plattsburgh, and in sight of the famous Hotel 
Champlain, are still occasionally recovered relics ot the 
bloody battle of Lake Champlain. 

But all this, of course, is " by the way." 



MONTREAL FOR T O l' R I S T S 



Victoria 
Square. 




As we approach Montreal, it is the St. Lawrence 
River that first commands attention. Second only in 
importance to the Mississippi, which in variety and 
interest it greatly exceeds, it is here fully two miles 
wide. When one thinks that its source is the largest 
body of tresh water on the face of the globe; that it 
drains the entire system of the Great Lakes of North 
America; that it receives the waters of two hundred 
lesser rivers, one of them, the Ottawa, six hundred 
miles in length — that great Niagara is only one 
episode in its mighty course — in the presence of such 
majesty a man feels like taking off his hat. 

We enter Montreal over the piers of what was once 
famous as the Victoria Tubular Bridge, erected in 
1854-9 at a cost of |7,ooo,ooo, and without question 
"a magnificent monument of engineering skill," but 
practically, so far as the traveler was concerned, a dark, 



MONTREAL 



FOR 



TOURISTS 



deatening, sixteen-foot hole two miles long, now 
happily replaced by a double-tracked, open-work, steel 
structure from which views of both city and river are 
continuous. 

Hinshelwood says: "It would be difficult to 
imagine a more exquisite view than is to be obtained 
from the car-window as the train approaches Montreal 
over this bridge on a summer evening about sunset. 
Then, the stately mountain that rises behind the city 
is draped in that purple haze that onlv the shadow of 
departing day can produce, and 
the eye can just grasp the dim 
suggestion ot luxuriant verdure on 
the heights that stand in such 
relief against the rosy tint of the 
heavens. Nestling at the foot lies 
the city, the harsh outline of fac- 
tories, chimneys, and houses now 
being softened and blend- 




ed into an harmonious 

mass; relieved 

here and there 

by the graceful 

steeples or 

stately towers of 

the churches. 

In the tore- 

ground, a forest of masts rises from the scintillating 

waters of the St. Lawrence; and, immediately behind, 

the tall, massive towers of Notre Dame are silhouetted 

against the sky. Lingering here for a little while 

longer, the scene changes; detail is lost in shadow, 



MONTREAL FOR TOURISTS 

lights appear, one by one, until the city and the long 
line of water front is ablaze with thousands of glitter- 
ing lamps; Mount Royal being alone in gloom, keep- 
ing dark and shadowy vigil over all," 

Arrived at the Bonaventure station, an admirable 
transfer system of trolley cars will take you to any part 
of the city, or you can go in a cab for twenty-five cents. 
Of the hotels, the Windsor, on Dominion Square, 
is the most widely known ; St. Lawrence Hall on St. 
James Street, in the business part of the town, is the 
oldest, and the Place Viger,the latest. There are plenty 
of others less expensively managed, but very good. 

The tourist from the States will be impressed, first 
of all, with the substantial appearance of the city, 
which, although far from being gloomy, both in archi- 
tecture and building material of dark gray limestone, 
suggests London rather than Paris. Everywhere the 
heavy walls indicate a severer climate than our own. 
Some of the streets in the lower and older part of the 
town are narrow, irregular, and dingy; but the residen- 
tial streets in terraces vipon the slope are as handsome 
as could be wished. Many of the most interesting 
features are apparent only after a little research. 
" Squeezed in among the out-buildings of busy 
factories and great modern warehouses," a recent 
writer says, "are to be found modest, but massively 
built, residences of the French regime, with their 
generous open fireplaces and elaborately ornamented 
mantels, built as long ago as 1680. Curious old 
Roman Catholic chapels and convents occupy the very 
center of blocks which at a cursory glance seem given 
up to twentieth century commercial activity. As 



M () \ T R F. A L FOR T () l" R 1 S T S 




quaint and sweet a monastery garden as ever existed 
in fourteenth century Europe flourishes within easy 
stone's throw of the Montreal Stock Exchange." And 
he might have added that the colossal statue of Notre 
Dame de Bonsecours, for two hundred and fifty years the 
French sailor's patron saint, looks down from her lofty 
pedestal above the fantastic old seventeenth century 
church of the same name upon seven miles of wharves 
for which, neither in substantiality or management, 
can New York citv offer a parallel — upon harbor 
improvements which completed will have cost ten 
million dollars, and in the season of navigation upon 
a display of shipping which to the tourist who has 
never thought much about it, is simply marvelous. 

Everywhere will be noted evidences of the Roman 
Catholic origin and continued occupation ot the city. 



\'ictoria 
College. 



MONTREAL 



FOR, 



TOURISTS 



Founded in 1642 by Paul de Chomedey Sieur de 
Maisonneuve, as a strictly religious settlement for the 
conversion of the Indians, and of which a seminary of 
priests and a nuns' hospital were essential features, 
250,000 of its 350,000 inhabitants are to-day of that 
faith. At one time the entire island, thirty miles long 
and in some places ten miles wide,was the property of the 
Seminary of St. Sulpice, the members of which occupy 
their home built in 1710 on La Place d'Armes. It has 
only one room in which there is a carpet or an uphols- 
tered chair, these being solely for the use of any visit- 
ing bishop — although the seminary is reputed to be 
the wealthiest religious institution on the continent. 

Increase in the value of real estate has added very 
largely to the wealth of the religious orders, much of 
which has been expended upon the churches, which 
accounts for their exceptional magnificence. Inciden- 
tally, perhaps, this has had a stimulating influence upon 
other denominations; for although 

" Latest church, tallest steeple," 



Royal 

Victoria 

Hospital, 

Montreal. 




M () N T R i; 



F () R 



TOURISTS 



does not exactly describe the situation, the churches of 
Montreal taken together, Catholic and Protestant, are 
indeed remarkable. The Methodist church on St. 
Catharine Street, for instance, has an exterior as 
imposing as that 
of a cathedral ; 
and, as for the 
Presbyterians, 
with about one- 
tenth as many 
members as the 
Catholics, they 
have nearly as 
many churches. 
Christ Church, 
the English 
cathedral, is said 
to be nearer per- 
fection, archi- 
tecturally, than any church in Canada; and St. 
George's, also Episcopal, is notable for its windows, 
its music, and its chimes. 

The church most visited by tourists is the parish 
church of Notre Dame, whose twin towers, 228 feet 
high, have long been almost as much identified with 
views of Montreal as Mount Royal itself It Is said 
to be, with the exception of the cathedral in the city 
of Mexico, the largest church, and In one of the 
towers hangs the largest bell, in North America. 
Upon the vast interior the St. Sulpice fiithers, them- 
selves living so simply within the bare walls of the 
adjoining seminary, have poured money without stint 




MONTREAL P^OR TOURISTS 



Dominion 

Square 

and 

St. James 

Cathedral. 




or hindrance, especially in the chapel of the Sacred 
Heart, at the rear of the grand altar, where decoration 
and carving appear to have reached their limit. Thou- 
sands of tourists visit this church annually. Many, 
by paying a small fee, are permitted to ascend one 
of the towers, and view the city from that lofty emi- 
nence. The Fathers are pleased to have the church 
so visited, and ask no more than that the reverent 
demeanor suitable to the place should be maintained. 
This is true of all the Catholic institutions in Montreal 
to which the public is admitted. 

Next in prominence, certainly so far as exteriors go, is 
the cathedral of St. James, on Dominion Square. It is 
built on the model of St. Peter's at Rome. Its dome 
is conspicuous from every point, and its {a^adc, bearing 
colossal statues of Christ and the apostles, is the object 
of much consideration. Temples like this are the work 
of years — often of centuries ; and the decoration which 
the interior now lacks will be supplied later on. 



M O N T R E A L FOR T () U R I S T S 

Other churches In which there is no such lack are 
the exquisite Notre Dame de Lourdes, corner of St. 
Catharine and St. Denis streets, with its wonderful 
altar picture of the Virgin, and its whole interior dec- 
oration illustrating the doctrine of the Immaculate 
Conception ; and the Jesuit Church of the Gesu on 
Bleury Street, with its frescoes and oil paintings. 

Hospital work which, as has been stated, was one of 
the objects of the original settlement, is still carried on 
in the same spirit of devotion and self-sacrifice that 
characterized the founders; and while, as a general 
thing, hospitals are not the most exhilarating places to 
visit, no one who wishes to make anything like a 
study of the city can afford to ignore the hospitals of 
Montreal. In these institutions, as In the churches, 
it seems quite possible that the Catholics have " set 
the pace " which has resulted in larger, finer, and 
better equipped hospitals than are common to cities of 
similar size. 

The Hotel DIeu, founded in 1644, by Jeanne 
Mance, one of the four young nuns who came over 
with Malsonneuve, and whose whole life was devoted to 
this service, nursing indiscriminately sick Indians and 
wounded Frenchmen, is on Pine Street, in charge of 
the Black Nuns — Sisters of St. Joseph — those who 
have taken the Kill vows never leaving the premises. 
It has beds for 230 patients. 

The Royal Victoria Hospital, a much later institu- 
tion (i 887), was founded by Lord Mount Stephen 
and Lord Strathcona, each contributing one million 
dollars. It is situated in a large park on the mountain 
side; has 225 beds, and Is thoroughly equipped. 





City of Montreal from Mt. Roval. 



MONTREAL P^OR TOl'RISTS 

The Montreal General Hospital on Dorchester 
Street, founded in 1818, was the first Protestant hos- 
pital, and has done, and is doing, an immense amount 
of good. 

The Grey Nunnery, so called from the dress of the 
sisters, and founded in 1692, is on Dorchester Street, 
and, although not strictly a hospital, has more than 
300 rooms devoted to the sick, the infirm, and desti- 
tute of all sects, and to deserted infants. The nuns 
receive visitors every day at noon. The sisters, nov- 
ices, and auxiliary sisters number over 900, and are in 
charge of sixteen different institutions. 

The question was once raised whether the Mountain 
should go to Mohammed, or Mohammed should go 
to the Mountain — but it was not in Montreal. Here, 
everybody goes to the Mountain — if not alive, then 
afterward; for besides the magnificent public park of 
460 acres, there are three cemeteries — one for Catho- 
lics, one for Hebrews, and the other for the rest of 
mankind. In the Catholic cemetery the "Way of the 
Cross" is typified by a winding path, along which are 
fourteen stations or shrines, leading finally to a realistic 
representation of the momentous scene on Calvary, 
with life-sized figures hanging on the three crosses, and 
of the weeping women. It is said that from 50,000 to 
80,000 people sometimes attend the open air sermons 
preached here on certain church days. 

Mount Royal, although not very lofty, as mountains 
are rated, say, in Colorado, rises 700 feet above the St. 
Lawrence, and, as Jacques Cartier, the first white man 
who ever made the ascent, wrote in 1535, 
" Therefrom one sees very far." 



M O N T R 1. A L F () R T () IRIS T S 




The best point tor observation can easily be reached 
by an inclined railway, but the beautiful winding 
carriage drive is more enjoyable, and the view well re- 
pays much greater effort than is necessary if one goes 
all the way on foot. There are many mountains on 
this continent; but few, if any, so directly overlooking 
a city of 350,000 inhabitants. To quote again from 
Hinshelwood: 

"On one side stretches the city, with its glittering 
domes and spires, its long line of shipping, its massive 
public institutions, its villas embowered in trees; and 
beyond, the gleaming waters of the St. Lawrence. In 
the background of the plains are seen gaunt, rugged 
peaks which in former years belched forth fire and 
smoke, and which now, although worn out and help- 
less, still defiantly rear their heads towards the sky; 
whilst further back again are the Green Mountains of 



Sherbrooke 
Street. 



M CJ N T R i: 



F () R 



r () I' R 1 S T S 



Vermont, and the Adirondacks of New York. To 
the west lies Nuns' Island; and a glimpse is to be 
had of the foam-crested waves of the Lachine Rapids, 
beyond which stretch fertile fields that gradually 
dissolve into the haze of the horizon. To the north 
the marble statuary of the cemeteries mav be discerned 
in the immediate foreground, with the Ottawa River 

further 
hack, 
showing 
like a 
silvery 
thread 
through 
the trees, 
as it flows 
round the 
island t o 
join the 
St. Law- 
rence; and in the far distance lies ihc rugged Laurentian 
range which marks the beginning ot those unknown 
wilds that stretch in unbroken solitude to the North." 

Mount Royal is of volcanic origin, and there is a 
prophecy — which, however, does not appear to affect 
the price of real estate — that some dav it will return to 
its bad habits and further distinguish — and extinguish 
— Montreal bv making it the Pompeii of North 
America. 

To enter upon the historical associations in which 
Montreal and the immediate vicinitv are so rich, is to 
begin without knowing where to stop. 




M O N T R E A I, 



FOR 



TOURISTS 



Fhose tourists who care for such matters will be 
greatly aided by the highly creditable work of the local 
Antiquarian Society which has tableted many of the 
principal points of interest; and those who know their 
Parkman, or who are fresh from the romances of Mrs. 
Catherwood and Sir Gilbert Parker, will find them- 
selves among familiar names and places. The scope 
of this pamphlet, however, will permit only brief 
mention of some of these among other features which 
should not escape attention. 

The Chateau de Ramezay (1705) opposite the City 
Hall, has a famous history, no part of which is more 
interesting to tourists from the other side of the line 
than that during the brief American occupation (from 
November, 1 775, to June, i 776,) it was the headquarters 
of the invaders. Here General Montgomery, killed 
at Quebec, issued his manifestoes. Hither, at the 
behest of Congress, came Benjamin Franklin and other 
commissioners to urge upon Canada the advantages of 
" throwing off the yoke," which, strange to say, she 
did not do, but wears with almost perfect equanimity 




McGill 

University. 



MONTREAL 



FOR 



TOURISTS 



to this very day. Franklin was accompanied by his 
inevitable printing press, which was set up in the 
massive old vaults underneath the building, and on 
this was printed the first number of the Montreal 
Gazette. The building is now an antiquarian museum. 

On the grounds of Montreal College, on Sherbrooke 
Street, two quaint and massive towers are all that 
remain of Fort de la Montagne, built in 1694, by the 
Seminary. In these towers the patient sisters taught 
the Indians. 

There is a still older structure at 27 St. Jean Baptiste 
Street, built in 1655, for the residence of a French fur 
merchant; and in St. Gabriel Street, St. Amable Street, 
and St. Vincent Street (laid out in 1689) are several 
others almost as old. 

In Vaudreuil Lane stands the modest old warehouse 
where John Jacob Astor in the 
palmy days of the fur trade laid 
the foundations of the Astor 
millions. 

In La Place d'Armes, 
opposite the church of 
Notre Dame, stands 
the monument to 
Maisonneuve, 
the founder 
of Montreal; 
and on a tab- 
let on the 
I mperial 
Insurance 
building 




MONTREAL FOR TOURISTS 



Lake 

Champlain. 




near hv is recorded that on this spot the founders first 
met in battle the Iroquois, the chief of whom was 
killed by Maisonneuve with his own hand. The mon- 
ument of granite carries a superb bronze statue of the 
intrepid soldier in seventeenth century costume, and 
bearing aloft the banner of France. 

Other statues worth seeing are the Nelson Monu- 
ment on Jacques Cartier Square; the statue of the late 
Qiieen on Victoria Square, and that of Sir John A. 
Macdonald on Dominion Square. 

At the corner of St. Peter and St. Paul streets stood 
the residence of Robert Cavelier La Salle, and on the 
lower Lachine Road are still pointed out the ruins ot 
his fortified chateau (1668), where it is easy to believe 
that for many a day he nursed his favorite dream of 
finding across the American continent the way to 
China. It is even said that " La Chine" was the nick- 
name given to his estate, in derision of his schemes; 
for this "foremost pioneer of the great west," magni- 
ficently bold, but shy, proud and reserved — this great 



M () N T R E A L 



FOR 



TOURISTS 



explorer who took possession in the name of the King 
of France of all the country from the Alleghanies to 
the Rocky Mountains — was anything but popular 
among his men, and died at last their victim. 

On St. Paul Street, east of Place Royal, was the birth- 
place of the brothers LeMoyne, one of whom founded 
New Orleans, and both of whom were governors of 
Louisiana — between them, for forty-six years. 

Near La Place d'Armes stood the house of Sieur 
Du Lhut, or Duluth, after whom the Zenith City dis- 
covered bv Proctor Knott was named; and in the 
same neighborhood was the house of Antoine de la 
Mothe Cadillac, the founder of Detroit. 

On the site of the Bonsecours Market stood the 
residence of Sir John Johnson, who fled from the 
Mohawk Valley with 300 Tory tenants in 1776, and 
whose name is indelibly associated with the Indian 
massacre at Cherry Valley. At the open-door market 
held here every Tuesday and Friday come the country 
habitants, in their carts, bringin'j with t-hetn evervthingr 
they have to sell, 
from meat and 
vegetables to rag 
carpets, wooden 
shoes, and native- 
grown tobacco, Wtj^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^V^ I 
and the bargain- 
ing and haggling 
that ensue form 
one of the sights 
of Montreal. 

McGill U n i - Residence ol Hubert Ca\clicr 




La Salle. 



MONTREAL FOR TOURISTS 

versity occupies part of the ancient Indian village of 
Hochelaga, visited by Cartier in 1535. 

An obscure street, known as Dollard Lane, contains 
a tablet recognizing the sublime self-sacrifice of Adam 
Dollard and sixteen other colonists, who, in 1 660, paral- 
leled the heroism of Horatio at the Gate, by going forth 
knowingly to certain death and probable torture, bat- 
tling with 800 savages on the Ottawa, and giving their 
lives that the colony might live. 

St. Helen's Island, now a public park readily 
reached by ferry, was once the property of Samuel de 
Champlain, bought by him with his wife's dowry, and 
given her name. From this point he made numerous 
expeditions; in 1609 discovering the lake named in 
his honor. St. Helen's Island was early used for 
military purposes, as part of it is so used to-day. It 
was here that Chevalier de Levis burned the flags of 

O 

the French army (1760) rather than surrender them to 

the British conqueror. General Amherst. 

Lachine, nine miles up the river, the scene in 1689 

of a terrible 
Indian massacre, 
is now visited 
every summer by 
throngs of tour- 
ists who go up by 
train, in order to 
come back by 
boat, through the 
rapids — a drop 
of torty-five feet, 
and a sensation 




Lake George. 



M () \ r R 1-; 



K () R 



TOURISTS 



without experi- 
encing vvh ic h no 
visit to Montreal 
is complete. 

On the oppo- 
site side of the 
river f r o ni L a - 
chine is the In- 
dian village of 
Caughnawaga. 

At St. Anne, 
where the Ottawa 
joins the St. Law- 
rence, still stands 
the house where 
Tom Moore, in 
1805, wrote the 
" Canadian Boat Song." 

Further and more detailed information can be 
obtained from Montreal guide books, of which there 
are many, but of which " Montreal and Vicinity," by 
N. M. Hinshelwood, is the latest and best, being 
particularly valuable for its fullness in relation to many 
near-by places almost as interesting in their character- 
istics and associations as the city itself. The Business 
Men's League, which has offices at 1651 Notre Dame 
Street, where strangers are welcomed, also publishes 
a very good guide-book for free distribution. 

During the summer a touring observation car is run 
twice a day over a portion of the forty-five miles 
of street railway, for the special purpose of showing 
strangers the more interesting parts of the city. 




Silver 
Birches. 



MONTREAL FOR TOURISTS 



R. & O. 

Steamer 
Kingston. 



Many tourists "do" the churches, and the moun- 
tain — they ride about the city, shoot the Lachine 
Rapids, and then are off for Quebec or the Thousand 
Islands, thinking they have seen Montreal — and, in a 
way, they have ; and it is worth while, something to be 
remembered, and always with pleasure ; and those who 
can do no more should by all means be encouraged 
to do that much. But it is also worth while to 
spend more time, — to study Montreal in detail. For 
instance : 

To become acquainted with the habitant^ whom 
Dr. Drummond has so delightfully portrayed in verse, 
the freshness, the drollery, the charm of which not 
only excuse the dialect but amply justify it ; 

To meet the representative business men — to 
obtain admission to one or more of the representative 
clubs; 

To become informed as to the city's immense 
advantages afforded by water power applied to the 
generation of electricity; 



M () N r R i: A I, 



() R 



r () i; R I s T s 



To get sonie idea ot the vast railroad enterprises 
centering in Montreal; 

To look into the Canadian system of canals and 
locks — and note the million-bushel elevator for hand- 
ling export grain ; 

To count the ocean steamers loading and unloading 
at the seven miles of wharves ; 

To consider, sav, the Bank ot Montreal, and recall 
where in the United States there is such a bank build- 
ing, or such a bank; 

To understand what is doing for education, for 
philanthropy, for wholesome recreation, for the 
social life — 

And last, but not least, to appreciate what is meant 
by the Canadian spirit — a sentiment stronger possibly 



A 



Bonaventure 

Station, 

Montreal. 




MONTREAL 



FOR 



TOURISTS 



among the young than with those of maturer years, 
but a sentiment under the influence of which — as it 
may seem to the thoughtful tourist — Canada will 
eventually neither remain the province, nor become 
the part, of any country, but assume her rightful place 
as a free and independent nation 

— "in the federation of the world." 
To that nation Montreal will be what New York is 
to the United States, the chief city, the principal sea- 
port, the great financial, social, and commercial capital. 




MONTREAL 



IN WINTER 



MONTREAL 



FOR 



T O I' R I S T S 



Sleighing 
un 

Mount 
Rov;il. 




No one will know Montreal thoroughly who has not 
visited it in winter; and many are of the opinion that it 
one can go there only once, it should be in that season. 

Montreal is distinctively a Winter city. 

The social season is then at its height. Society, which 
like society in other cities, in summer scatters among 
the various pleasure resorts, in winter is "at home," and 
thrown upon its own resources for enjoyment. The 
complete suspension ot many kinds ot business also 
leaves a large number of persons tree to give them- 
selves up to sports and pastimes, and they do so with 
an abandon not usually expected ot the North. 

The climate, although much colder, so tar as ther- 
mometer records go, than that ot New York, is singu- 
larly exhilarating and delighttul. 

The dry, crisp air is devoid ot the disagreeable chill 
common to greater humidity. 

It inspires, rather than benumbs. 

It tingles, but it invigorates. 



M () N T R 



F () R 



() I' R I S T S 



You thrill, and glow; but you do not shiv^er. 

There is usually a large amount of snow and ice — 
much sunshine — very little wind. 

With proper precautions in relation to clothing 
there is nothing tor the winter tourist to dread — much 
to anticipate with delight. 

To many, a week of Montreal in Winter will be a 
revelation. 

They will never have dreamed that Cold had in it 
so much of pure enjoyment, while its enlivening, 
strengthening influence is in marked contrast with the 
enervating effects of the climate of Florida or Southern 
Cahfornia. 

Sports, some of which, in spite of all efforts to 
transplant, still remain foreign to the United States, 
flourish here at their best. 

SNOWSHOEING, for instance, is carried on by 
various clubs composed of the best people, who arrange 
bi-weekly tramps in costume, with occasional "meets" 
in which all 
unite for a 
joint torch- 
light proces- 
sion, with 
fire- works, 
etc. A 
tramp 
over the 
Mountain 
at night 
under such 
auspices. 

Tobogganing. 




MONTREAL 



FOR 



TOURISTS 



with supper, songs, and music, is an event to be 
remembered. 

TOBOGGANING is also conducted systematic- 
ally with long and perfectly-kept slides, on which 
children of every age, from six to sixty, enjoy the 
lightning-like speed with which the toboggans — some 
holding four or five passengers — dash over the snow 
and ice. It is no uncommon sight to see persons of 
mature years and eminent respectability passing the 
whole afternoon in this amusement. 

SLEIGHING, with fast horses, musical bells, and 
warm and gaily-colored robes, over the ample coating 
of snow with which the _ 

island of Montreal is 
usually supplied, is 
the very idealiza- 
tion of pleasure 
driving, and is 
indulged in by 
thousands. 

SKATING 
is a highly pop 
ular pastime, there 




Ice 

Yachting. 




.^ 



Copyrighted by Wm. Notman & Sons. 



MONTREAL 



!■■ () R 



r () V R I s r 




being several famous 
covered rinks. At the 
Victoria Rink, in the 
rear of the Windsor 
Hotel, are held the cel- 
ebrated fancy dress car- 
nivals which present the 
most picturesque spec- 
tacle of the kind in 
America. The immense 
building decorated with 
banners and Chinese 
lanterns and ablaze with 
electric lights — the ice 
peopled with a thousand 
or more skaters in every variety of fantastic costume — 
abbes, savages, kings, queens, imps, and angels — all 
mingling to the sounds of enchanting music in a 
phantasmagoria as fascinating and marvelous as it is 
bewildering and indescribable. At the rink of the 
Montreal Amateur Athletic Association (membership 
over 2,000) skating contests take place annually for 
the championship of America. 

HOCKEY, the fastest and most exciting game in 
the world, is played in Montreal for all it is worth; and 
CURLING, dear to the heart of every Scotchman, 
has been svstematicallv conducted since i 807. 

On the whole, no city enjovs life better in the 
Winter than Montreal, and with true hospitality, now 
as always, she welcomes the outside world to share 
in her pleasures. 

Not, however, as at one time, with effusive adver- 



MONTREAL FOR TOURISTS 



Grand 
Trunk 
Offices, 
Montreal. 




tising of winter carnivals, ice palaces, and an apparent 
deification of King Boreas and Jack Frost; for it was 
found that the graphic reports sent abroad, with 
accompanying pictures, were creating an exaggerated 
impression of the Canadian climate not calculated to 
encourage immigration. 

For this reason, the formal Winter Carnivals have 
been abandoned. But the fun goes on just the same 
— in fact, although with less of artifice and clap-trap, 
perhaps, with more of the original spirit than ever; 
and those who for the first time visit Montreal in 
Winter have in store an experience as unique as it is 
delightful. 

Take all your furs, of course. 



MONTREAL V OR TO V R I S T S 

SIDE TRIPS 

QLJEBEC THE SAGUENAY RIVER TORONTO. 



Many tourists who go to Montreal go also to 
Qiiebec, i8o miles down the river, and conveniently 
reached bv boats of the R. & O. Navigation Company 
which leave Montreal in the evening and arrive in 
Quebec in the morning. Older (1608) than Montreal, 
and of much less importance commercially speaking, it 
is, because of the strikingly dramatic events that have 
there been enacted, the fact that its historical sites have 
never been defaced or altered, its curiously antique 
features and its magnificent scenic environment, one of 
the most romantic and interesting places in North 
America. A portion of the Upper Town is still sur- 
rounded by a massive wall through which there is 
access by two gates of considerable architectural pre- 
tensions, three others having been dispensed with. 
The Citadel, covering forty acres, ^^3 ^^^^ above the 
river, and DufFerin Terrace, 1,400 feet long, both afford 
magnificent views of the Isle of Orleans, the river 
itself, and the mountains east and west. Back of the 
terrace, in the Governor's garden, stands a monument 
"In memory of Wolfe and Montcalm," the English 
and the French generals, the victor and the vanquished 
being thus equally honored in a suggestive illustration 
of the manner in which Time obliterates the causes for 
which men sacrifice their lives. On the Plains of 
Abraham, outside the St. Louis gate, stands a monu- 
ment to mark the spot where "Wolfe tell \'ictorious." 
There is no monument to the intrepid Gen. Richard 



MONTREAL FOR TOURISTS 

Montgomery, but the spot where he died as gloriously 
as ever soldier fell, at the head of the little American 
storming party, December 31, 1775, and the house 
where his remains were deposited previous to being 
buried by his antagonists with all the honors of war, 
are pointed out. Other places of interest are the great 
University of Laval, the Basilica, the Ursuline Convent 
where Montcalm is buried; and last, but not least, the 
Chateau Frontenac, a twentieth century hotel in a 
seventeenth century setting. 

The Falls of Montmorency, 150 feet higher than 
Niagara, distant from Qiiebec seven miles, are easily 
reached by electric cars, as is also the shrine of St. 
Anne de Beaupre (twenty miles), where 150,000 pil- 
grims annually pay their devotions and where many 
believe themselves to have been miraculously cured, 
as a great pyramid of crutches left in the beautiful 
Basilica or Church of St. Anne is evidence. These 
miracles have been wrought here since 1662, and the 
belief in them appears to be as strong as ever. Frag- 
ments of the bones of St. Anne, mother of the Virgin 
Mary, and whose remains were originally deposited in 
the valley of Jehosaphat, but in the first century re- 
moved to France, are here exposed for the veneration 
of the faithful, the principal relic — a finger bone — since 
1670. 

Many tourists extend their trip to the Saguenay, 
that dark and mysterious river where Cape Trinity and 
Cape Eternity raise their awful heights in solemn and 
impressive grandeur 2,000 feet in air. Other tourists 
go up the Ottawa River to Ottawa, the capital of the 
Dominion — others up the St. Lawrence to the Thou- 



M c) X T R i; A 1. 1 () R r () r R 1 s r s 

sand Islands — others plunge into the northern wilder- 
ness in pursuit of fish and game, of which there is as 
little limit to the abundance as there is to the territory 
which contains it. 

The Best Time to go to Montreal is the time which 
best suits your convenience. 

The Best Way to go to Montreal, summer or 
winter, is by the Delaware & Hudson, the shortest, 
quickest, most interesting, and most picturesque route. 
From New York City, via either Troy or Albany, the 
direction is almost directly north. Passengers have 
their choice in summer of going all the way by rail, or 
of making part of the trip by steamer through the 
waters of Lake Champlain. 

Tickets and information about the Delaware & 
Hudson R. R. are obtainable at principal ticket and 
tourist offices in the United States. 

A Bureau of Information and Ticket Office has 
been established at 2i Cortlandt Street, New York. 

Information with respect to tours, fares, time tables, 
maps, guides, etc., will be cheerfully furnished by 

J. W. BURDICK, A. A. HEARD, 

General Pass'' r Agent, Ass' t Gen' I Pass'r Agent. 





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